Materials guide · 2026
PLA vs PETG vs ABS: which filament to choose
These are the three most-used FDM filaments and the most common question of anyone starting out. Short answer: PLA to learn and for decorative parts, PETG for everyday functional parts, and ABS only if you need heat resistance and have an enclosed printer. The long answer, with numbers, is below.
Quick comparison table
| PLA | PETG | ABS | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nozzle temp | 200-220°C | 220-250°C | 220-250°C |
| Bed temp | 50-60°C | 70-90°C | 90-110°C |
| Enclosure? | No | Recommended | Nearly required |
| Ease | ★★★★★ | ★★★☆☆ | ★★☆☆☆ |
| Heat resistance | Low (~55°C) | Medium (~62°C) | High (~95°C) |
| Failure behavior | Brittle (snaps) | Tough (absorbs impact) | Impact resistant |
Indicative ranges per Ultimaker, All3DP and Slice Engineering guides (sources below); exact values depend on the filament brand.
PLA — the one to start with
PLA prints at low temperature, needs no very hot bed or enclosure and barely warps as it cools. That makes it the easiest material and the one recommended for your first months. Its raw tensile strength is high (≈50-60 MPa per Slice Engineering), but it has a key downside: it's brittle. When a PLA part reaches its limit it snaps instead of bending, and it softens with heat. Ideal for: figures, prototypes, models, decorative parts and learning.
PETG — the balanced one
PETG is the middle ground that earned the title of "filament for real parts". It handles more heat than PLA (holds its shape up to ≈62°C) and, while its tensile strength is somewhat lower (≈40-50 MPa), it's far more tough: it absorbs impacts without snapping. In exchange it's a bit fussier to print than PLA — it wants higher temperature and fine cooling control. Ideal for: brackets, boxes, mechanical parts under moderate stress, outdoor objects.
ABS — the technical one
ABS is the most heat- and impact-resistant of the three, the plastic of automotive parts and technical enclosures. Its problem is printing: it shrinks a lot as it cools, so without an enclosed chamber keeping the air warm, parts lift and crack at the corners (warping). It also gives off fumes worth ventilating. So ABS only makes sense if you need its heat resistance and have an enclosed printer. Ideal for: functional parts facing heat or wear, mechanical prototypes, electronics enclosures.
So which do I buy?
- Starting out → PLA. Period.
- Real-use parts (brackets, tools, outdoors) → PETG.
- Heat resistance or technical materials → ABS (or its cousin ASA), but you need an enclosure.
If you're still choosing a printer, almost all modern ones print PLA and PETG fine; what matters for ABS is the enclosure. It's filterable in our catalog and summarized in the best beginner printer guide.
FAQ
- Which filament is easiest to start with?
- PLA, hands down. It prints at low temperature (≈200-220°C), needs no very hot bed or enclosure and barely warps. It's the recommended material for your first months.
- Which is the strongest?
- It depends what you mean by strong. ABS handles more heat and impact; PETG absorbs blows better without breaking (it's 'tough'); PLA is very stiff but brittle: at its limit it snaps instead of bending.
- Can I print ABS without an enclosure?
- You can, but it's troublesome: ABS shrinks a lot as it cools and without a chamber keeping the air warm, parts lift and crack (warping). For reliable ABS, an enclosed printer is practically mandatory.
- Does PETG replace PLA and ABS?
- For many functional parts, yes: it handles more heat than PLA (≈62°C before softening) and is easier to print than ABS. That's why it has become the favorite for real-use parts that don't need ABS's extreme heat resistance.