What layer height is best for 3D printing?

It depends on what you want: lower layer height = more quality but more time; higher = faster but the lines show more. If you want a middle ground without thinking about it, turn on adaptive layers: the slicer applies a different height depending on the angles of the part.

How do I get a uniform finish across the whole part?

Apply the same speed to the entire profile. In the slicer, find the lowest speed shown and set it everywhere. Finish changes with speed, so matching it across the part keeps it uniform.

Why do the corners lift (warping)?

Because the part cools too fast and peels off. What works best for me: raise the bed temperature a little, keep the plate clean, and if it still happens, add a few brim layers around the part to hold the corners down.

Do you need to know a lot to print well?

No. Modern printers self-calibrate and the bundled profiles already print well. But a few basics —orientation, supports, speed, seam— make the difference between printing carelessly and getting parts that look like a finished product.

Projects

8 tricks to improve your 3D prints (what I learned in 500 days)

I've been printing almost every week for over 500 days with my Bambu Lab A1. Along the way I've learned that you don't need to fight the machine to get good parts: you just tweak a few things in the slicer. These are the 8 tricks that improved my finish the most, all just a few clicks away.

Watch the video on YouTube ↗

1. Adaptive layers: balance time and quality

The higher the layer height, the faster the print — but each line shows more. If you don't want to choose between speed and finish, turn on adaptive layers: the slicer uses a different layer height depending on the angles of the part, spending detail only where it matters.

2. Control the seam

The seam is that point where the head steps up at the end of each layer, and it can ruin a part if it lands on a visible face. Play with the slicer's seam settings: try to move it to a hidden area or, on a rounded part, set it to random to scatter it into dots instead of a straight line top to bottom.

3. Ironing on flat surfaces

On flat top faces —like the base of a figure— turn on ironing: the printer passes the hot nozzle over the last layer again, smoothing it. When it works, it hides the lines a lot and looks far more professional.

4. Walls and infill, depending on use

If the part needs to be strong, don't just raise the infill: increase the number of perimeters (wall loops), which is what really adds strength. For the infill pattern, gyroid offers the best ratio of strength, weight and material savings.

5. Same speed across the whole part

Speed affects the finish: you can see it on the Benchy itself, where some layers come out more matte than others. If you want a uniform finish, take the lowest speed in the profile and apply it everywhere. And slow down the first layer a touch: it almost always comes out better.

6. Supports: the default tree usually does the job

If slicing flags overhangs in another color, you need supports (unless they're bridges you've already got handled). Don't overthink it: the default tree support settings are usually more than enough, and they peel off easily afterwards.

7. Avoid warping (lifted corners)

If the corners peel and curl, the part is cooling too fast. What works best for me: raise the bed temperature a little, wash and keep the plate clean, and if it still happens, add a few brim layers around the part to hold the corners down.

8. The big one: printing is easy, but it's not just one button

Today's machines self-calibrate and the bundled profile already prints well. But if you want to cut material, time, or review a profile you downloaded, you need a few basics: orientation, supports, materials and tolerances. That's the difference between printing carelessly and getting parts that look like a finished product.

FAQ

What layer height is best for 3D printing?: It depends on what you want: lower layer height = more quality but more time; higher = faster but the lines show more. If you want a middle ground without thinking about it, turn on adaptive layers: the slicer applies a different height depending on the angles of the part.
How do I get a uniform finish across the whole part?: Apply the same speed to the entire profile. In the slicer, find the lowest speed shown and set it everywhere. Finish changes with speed, so matching it across the part keeps it uniform.
Why do the corners lift (warping)?: Because the part cools too fast and peels off. What works best for me: raise the bed temperature a little, keep the plate clean, and if it still happens, add a few brim layers around the part to hold the corners down.
Do you need to know a lot to print well?: No. Modern printers self-calibrate and the bundled profiles already print well. But a few basics —orientation, supports, speed, seam— make the difference between printing carelessly and getting parts that look like a finished product.

Found it useful? I've got more things I've built in Projects, and if you're after your first machine, check the best 3D printer for beginners guide or why your print won't stick to the bed. All my designs are free on my MakerWorld profile.